Hours: Monday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday noon to 10 p.m. Prices: Most appetizers about $3; entrees about $6. Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.
If you weren't familiar with El Charrito and sampled just its appetizers and desserts, most of which are outstanding, you might think you had wandered into a top-notch Mexican restaurant. Unfortunately, you would be wrong, because most of what comes in between the appetizer and dessert courses is only mediocre -- not bad, necessarily, just dull.
But ah, those appetizers -- worth the trip in themselves. Quesadillas, for example, that are irresistible -- thin, light, chewy-crisp flour tortilla wrappers, a wonderful melted cheese-mushroom-bacon filling that makes the dish seem like a south-of-the-border pizza, and lots of sour cream and good, chunky guacamole as an accompaniment. Or nachos aztecas, with crisp taco shells, just the right bit of melted cheese and a good (if rather tame) ranchera sauce. The whole thing is set off on the platter by a generous mound of guacamole, sour cream, and diced tomatoes and scallions.
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What a lovely mingling of flavors, colors and textures, as beautiful to the eye as to the palate!
Soups, too, are first-rate, with rich, robust broths and plenty of lively, fresh vegetables. Try the lentil and meatball versions in particular.
But all the appetizers don't quite reach the heights. Na-charritos are taco cups filled with rather bland, dry chicken or even blander refried beans.
And the chili con carne, certainly wholesome with its lean ground meat and firm beans, is so spice-free that it could almost pass for baby food.
Bland flavorings and dry, chewy meats plague the entrees: carnitas, for example, with characterless cubes of poorly trimmed pork, or guiso de res a la melaque, with a pleasant (but again, bland) chili sauce and stringy meat. And the most expensive dish in the house, camarones tapatios, has dry, flavorless shrimp wrapped in even drier bacon.
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One decent bet among the meat entrees is arroz con pollo, its tasty, cheesy sauce compensating somewhat for the dry chicken. Ropa vieja is always a lovable dish, a mixture of scrambled eggs, beef, chilies, tomatoes and onions. Even the somewhat chewy beef at El Charrito can't dim its delights, and it's a real bargain at $3.95.
The usual Mexican specialties seem even more bland than the meat dishes, with the refried beans and taco fillings needing even salt.
There is one gem, though: chili relleno, with a marvelously fluffy cheese filling that stands out even when submerged in the ooze of a Mexican combination platter. This is a chili relleno to write home about.
Burritos and chimichangas are big and generously filled, but their wrappers have been unpleasantly thick and wet.
Desserts? Dynamite. Sopapillas are puffy, impeccably light pillows of fried dough, served with honey.
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What may be the only un-mushy burrito in the house is a dessert: the apple burrito, fried perfectly and rolled around a fine, chunky apply filling. (Never mind the flan or the fried ice cream.)
Conclusion? It's negative aspects notwithstanding, El Charrito has a lot to offer. It is a handsome restaurant, and has the added appeal of low prices and offers the option of dining in an attractive outdoor patio when the weather is suitable.
To take advantage of El Charrito, forget custom and build yourself a beautiful meal around the appetizers and desserts.
Two diners, for example, could have soups, quesadillas and nachos aztecas, perhaps a chili relleno to share, and sopapillas to finish. The selections would add up to some delightful Mexican food for about $20 with tax, tip and good Mexican beer.
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